Winebelly

Here in South Austin, the South First/Oltorf/South Lamar food corridors have gotten a lot more interesting  in the past couple months. First Barlata on South Lamar, a Spanish tapas bar (see my post here), and now Winebelly at South First and Oltorf, also a tapas bar, but serving a wider range of cuisine. (And I would be remiss if I didn't mention the Austin Beer Garden Brewery, just east of Lamar on Oltorf with their various beers brewed on site and delicious pizzas.) I tracked the openings of both Barlata and Winebelly and waited a good six weeks for things to shake down before trying either one. Verdict: worth the waits.

Winebelly took over the Green Muse Coffee Bar; it's on the south side of Oltorf, just east of South First, with sort of a disparate grouping of businesses (the gas station/convenience store on the corner, Pizza Patron, two financial services, Austin Rebuilders and Habanero). Fortunately, once inside, you don't feel like you're in a (quasi) strip center. The bar is directly in front when you walk in, with table seating around to the right and back, including what looked to be a nice patio area outside.

We started with some cocktails, I had the John Lee Hooker, a very tasty concoction of Gewurstraminer, Cava, agave nectar, ginger, and a dash of hot sauce. Winebelly presently offers only beer and wines, no liquor.

My friend started with the panzanella salad, which was beautiful and delicious! Lacinato kale dressed in a light sherry vinaigrette with watermelon radishes, idiazabal cheese (an aged Spanish sheep's milk cheese), and crisp bread cubes, which I much prefer over soggy ones often found in a panzanella.

I had the cauliflower soup, which was creamy and velvety beyond belief. It's topped with smoked trout and trout roe, and what you can't see but was an amazing addition was little bits of lightly tart apple at the bottom of the bowl. All the flavors were extremely well-balanced.

This is the specials board, which I didn't see when we walked in; it's on the wall to the left of the door when you walk in, but the hostess stand was to the right, so I missed it. We had a great waitress who was knowledgeable about the menu, and didn't hesitate to name her favorite dishes when I asked. Her only miscue was when describing the pork belly special, she said "summer squash puree" which sounded odd to me, and I even repeated it back to her. Clearly it didn't stop me from ordering the pork belly, and fortunately, it was with a sweet potato puree, whose sweetness countered the savory nature of the pork belly. The belly was nicely crisp on top, but still fatty -- without seeming fatty -- in the middle, you know what I mean? The Brussels were good, though I am having a hard time remembering how they were seasoned.

The meat balls was the one dish that neither of us were real impressed with. It's a decent enough serving of five not quite golf-ball sized  pieces, and they are a combo of pork, veal and beef. The flavor was okay,  however something was off with the texture. They held together, but were too....loose? Squishy? Undercooked, but not raw? Can't quite put my finger on it, but we didn't finish them.

We both wanted dessert, but presently Winebelly is only offering sorbets and gelatos. Something toothsome like cake or a brownie is what we both were craving.....hopefully in the future, they will offer more of a selection. The place has a great vibe, shabby chic decor, though a little dark even in the daylight hours (had to use the flash on the food pictures). I look forward to sitting out back and sipping on some wine for my next visit. Or perhaps some bubbly! The Mark Twain quote was inside one of the bathroom stalls.... might have to sneak a peak inside the men's room to see what inspiration is in there. Cheers to a great new addition to the neighborhood!

I believe Winebelly does a seasonal menu, so all items I described might not be on the menu when you go! Another side note, the owners are the Tran family that owns Hai Ky on East Oltorf.

A Chat with Sugar Mama's Bakeshop!

I live near Sugar Mama's Bakeshop, located at South First and Mary Streets, and I've been a fan from their opening (Carrot cake cupcake? Chocolate mint bar? Yes, please!). I recently chatted with owner Olivia O'Neal about the bakery and their recent win on the Food Network's Cupcake Wars.

Lead decorator Andrea Leck and Sugar Mama herself, Olivia O'Neal.

South Austin Foodie (SAF): How did the concept of Sugar Mama's come about? How did you decide on a location, especially when South 1st Street wasn't as hip as it is now?

Olivia O'Neal (OO): I spent about three years prior to opening working on a business plan and testing recipes. I started the process back in 2005 and we finally opened in 2008. We wanted a location that felt like an old fashioned bakery and was close to (my) home. We drove by the space on South 1st so many times and when we walked into it, I knew it was "the one." We definitely took a chance as this area was just starting to develop and there were a lot of problems with littering, loitering and theft in the beginning. Fast forward 5 years and it's a completely different street! 

SAF: How big is your staff? Do you have people baking around the clock? 
OO: Our staff size varies from 6-12 depending on the season. We start baking at 5AM each day and normally finish around 1. We don't bake around the clock, yet. :) 

SAF: From start to finish, how long does it take to make a batch of cupcakes, and what size/quantity is an average batch?

OO: It really depends on how complex it is, for a flavor like the Marilyn Monroe which is vanilla on vanilla, I could do around 100 in a little over an hour, including baking and cooling time. The ones with fillings and special garnishes take a lot longer. The batch size depends on the day of the week and how many orders we have. It could be 24 or it could be 400, every day is a surprise! 

SAF: How do you come up with the flavors? How many rounds of taste testing do items go through before they're deemed "worthy" of a spot in the case? Personal faves? Have you gone to war with your staff over flavors? ;)

OO: We look to desserts that were favorites growing up, as well as more modern desserts. At the beginning, taste testing could go on for months, now it's usually a matter of weeks or days as we've got a good system down. My personal favorites are anything with chocolate. I am a pretty picky person when it comes to desserts and I like my staff to have a lot of input. They have to do a lot of convincing when it has cream cheese frosting, nuts or coconut as I don't really enjoy any of those things -- it's purely a texture thing for me.

SAF: Prior to Cupcake Wars (CW), what have been some of your biggest victories and challenges?

OO: Our biggest victory has been our ability to open and remain open during one of the greatest financially challenging times in the US. Our challenges are to remain focused on consistency. No matter how often you make something there will be variables which sometimes come from the producers we purchase from and we have little control over them. But making a consistent and delicious product day in and day out remains our focus and I think we're getting pretty good at it. 

SAF: Okay, on to CW! Is it an application process? When were you selected? When did you film? How long have you been bursting at the seams with this fabulous secret!??

OO: We were approached to audition and a former employee's partner helped us get a great video together. It really showcased us, our shop and Austin. We were selected last fall and filmed a month later in November! 

SAF: So you kept it a secret for five months!

SAF: How much info did CW give you going into it? Did you know in advance it was going to be Weird Al, or at least that you'd have to come up with these kind of crazy cupcakes?

OO: I can't say much due to the strict confidentiality agreements we were required to sign, but let's just say there are a LOT of surprises and it was very intimidating and we never knew what was coming next! 

SAF: Was everything actually filmed in ONE day? And did those carpenters really build the accordion and food trailer displays in two hours?! Apart from winning, what did you and Andrea enjoy most about the experience?

OO: Absolutely!  It was seriously the longest day of my life. The rounds go so fast and the only down time you have is while they are judging in-between rounds. No one believes me that it all happens in one day, but I swear it does!  Andrea and I loved working with the crew and feeling like movie stars in LA. We had drivers and at the end of our crazy days out there we went out to some fabulous meals at some great restaurants -- the highlight was our meal at A-Frame. The whole experience was wonderful and we're hoping we get called back to compete in a Champion Round. 

SAF: What were your "Weird Al"-themed winning flavors? (The mission was to come up with strange flavors for Al's upcoming book release party.)

OO: (clockwise from top left) 1) The Waffle King, vanilla cupcake with "razzleberry" filling, and vanilla cream cheese frosting, topped with a waffle bite; 2) Eat It, a coconut cupcake with lychee curd, kumquat buttercream frosting, and a crispy rice cereal decoration on top; 3) The ALpocalypse, a chocolate cupcake with chocolate chipotle truffle filling, and chocolate buttercream; 4) The Polka Cake (now renamed the Honey Baklava) with baklava filling and cinnamon buttercream frosting.

SAF: How was Weird Al? He seems like a pretty cool dude! (Certainly it's a flashback to my 1980's teen years.) 

OO: He is seriously one of the nicest people ever. He's actually kind of quiet when you're one on one, and he and his family were so gracious at the book release party. 

~~~

And, since Olivia and I talked, Sugar Mama's has had some very exciting news -- they're adding a second location at 2406 Manor Road, which she hopes to have open by Thanksgiving! So for now, swing by the shop on South First, and indulge in a cupcake or pie or layer bar! If you've got a sweet tooth, Sugar Mama's will certainly satisfy! 

Note: Sugar Mama's winning Cupcake Wars episode will re-air on June 21st at 4 pm CST on the Food Network.

El Alma Cafe

El Alma Cafe is the latest reincarnation of the corner spot at Dawson (South 5th) and Barton Springs Road. I've stopped counting how many different restaurants have opened in this spot, and I thought we finally had a winner with El Chile. Then, in summer 2011, it seemed somewhat abruptly El Chile announced they were turning the kitchen and hence menu over to Chef Alma Alcocer-Thomas, a veteran of places such as Jeffrey's and Fonda San Miguel. So El Chile morphed into El Alma. I was invited to an opening tasting, and I had drinks and apps last summer, but not a full meal.

It was a warmer February night so we took advantage of their great rooftop patio. El Alma has generous happy hours, from 3 - 7 pm on weeknights, and 3 - 6 pm on weekends; there are some drink specials, and the regular appetizers are half price. And while the pricing of the sangria and house margarita was good, neither were exceptional drinks; the sangria really didn't have any kick to it, and the margarita had too much -- all sweet and sour mix. (My sangria from last summer was certainly better!) Our friendly waitress told us of some evening specials, which turned out to be quite delicious!

There was a creamy mushroom soup special, with cauliflower and scallops, which we all thought was pretty killer! Great deep flavor from all those umami mushrooms, and just super creamy. Not sure what else was in it (almonds?), but all three of us agreed we'd eat it again in a heartbeat. 

The shrimp chelada from the regular menu was less successful, as the shrimp were "overcooked" by the lime juice (it's ceviche-style), and were tough and very salty.

The other appetizer special was gorditas with chorizo, potato, crema Mexicana, and topped with chicarrones. The flavors were really good, as the chorizo did not overpower the other items. The gordita shells were crispier than I have had them before, but it was a nice texture contrast with the other ingredients. They kind of filled me up for the time being though, and I knew I wanted to try more of their food.

I ended up ordering the Duck Enmoladas to go -- duck enchiladas with their mole sauce. Yes, I am on the quest to find the best mole in town! El Alma's was quite good, but I am still searching! ;) Theirs is made from pasilla chiles, almonds, and the waitress said they use ground animal crackers as the thickener! It had a nice sweetness, some chocolately notes, and some heat to it! I also loved the pickled onions that were on here as well as the shrimp chelad, and at $15, a reasonable price, given that it is duck.

The upstairs patio practically doubles their seating space, and I know from past experience it can get a bit loud in the main room. The colorful artwork gives a nice visual pop to the interior stonework. It's also a good spot if you're coming to an event at the Long Center or Palmer Auditorium, as they are right across the street. Go sit upstairs while the weather is nice and enjoy the views of downtown. And pay attention to the dishes on the daily specials, or you might just miss something quite tasty! It's nice to have a semi-upscale interior Mexican spot in the neighborhood.

Sway

I was invited to a media tasting at the new Australian-influenced modern Thai spot Sway, at South First and Elizabeth Streets. I have lived in the Bouldin Creek neighborhood for a number of years, and as long as I can remember, the spot Sway took over has been an abandoned, gray, cinder block building. It is exciting to see new life in the neighborhood, and when you see Sway from the inside, it's hard to imagine why and how it sat dormant for so long. 

The building was redesigned by award-winning local architect Michael Hsu, who is responsible for quite a number of eateries in town, including Sway's sister restaurant downtown, La Condesa. The interior of Sway is spacious and open, with a somewhat hidden outdoor patio as well. You also get great views of the kitchen staff at work, and counter seating is available to watch your food being made. By and large, it is communal tables that can seat up to twelve. They don't take reservations, unless you're a group of ten or more.

We started off with some drinks, and Sway has quite a range, from sake to kombucha to tea. I was not familiar with "drinking vinegars" and our server explained while they are not uniquely Thai, they are found throughout southeast Asia. Sway serves the brand Pok Pok Som, and I had the tamarind, which is mixed with Topo Chico (sparkling mineral water). Nice and refreshing, and I would have loved a little more tartness in mine! 

The tasting began with the Prawn Miange -- betel leaf, shrimp, toasted coconut and cashews, lime, fresno chili, grapefruit, and dried shrimp. I occasionally see betel leaves in Asian groceries in town, and these are being brought in from Thailand. You just pick the whole leaf up, and pop the whole thing in your mouth for a great medley of flavors and textures.

Raw oysters were next, served with a wonderful sauce they call nahm jim and crispy shallots. Not sure specifically where the oysters were from (we were told east coast), but they went down easy with a light brininess. I loved the sauce, and asked what was in it; they were nice enough to print me the ingredients, and they make two versions, a red and green. I will assume this was the red nahm jim, which consists of Thai red and fresno chiles, garlic, cilantro, lime juice, palm sugar and fish sauce. SO GOOD!

Som tam, or green papaya salad with Thai red chile, cucumbers, green beans, and tamarind. I liked the flavor and texture of this salad -- spicy, a bit twangy, but still light and refreshing.

The next was Pad Thai Jay, which is much sweeter than a normal pad thai. The jay is also vegetarian, while the regular has shrimp. Not sure exactly what contributes the sweetness to this dish, but the more bites I took, the more I realized just how sweet is was. Staff at the tasting said it is something they have been made aware of by their customer base, but as of yet don't have plans to change it. Of all the dishes we sampled, this is really the only one I wouldn't order again.

Now the Kai Yaang, or charcoal rotisserie chicken, was fabulous! It was marinated in the delicious nahm jim sauce before cooking. The result was a tender, moist, and very flavorful chicken. The darkened skin was rendered nicely, and extremely hard to resist.

The Salt and Pepper Tofu used silken tofu, and had a nice sweet chile sauce. Thought the blocks of tofu could have been a touch crispier.

Finally, the Jungle Curry -- Texas Wagyu beef, red chile, eggplant, kaffir lime leaves, baby corn, green peppercorns, and coconut cream on top. The beef was fork-tender, and while the curry had some heat, you could temper it with the coconut cream. Not pictured are the jasmine and sticky rices that accompanied these dishes, and were great for soaking up some of the curry sauce. This and the chicken were my two favorites of the meal, and I can't wait to try them again!

For dessert, we had Jasmine Tea Panna Cotta. It had an extremely subtle jasmine flavor, accompanied by red grapes and lychees, holy basil caviar dots, crunchy amaranth, and coconut-lychee sorbet. Look at the bowl, it's a beautiful presentation! The sorbet and crunchy amaranth bits (something new to me!) really shined.

If you look at all the pictures, you'll notice that each one is topped with at least one thing for flavor and particularly texture, whether it's dried shrimp or shallots, toasted coconut or crunchy amaranth. All the plates are presented well with these little touches, and the flavors are bold and exciting. This is not your standard Thai fare, and that's a good thing, just as Sway is a great new thing in the neighborhood.

El Alma

The corner of Dawson (South 5th) and Barton Springs has been a revolving door for restaurants for a number of years. Most recently, it was an outpost of El Chile, and it appeared to be doing well. Then, it seemed without warning, El Chile closed last June, but rebranded itself with a new executive chef, Alma Alcocer, formerly of Jeffrey's.  I attended a tasting they hosted, but haven't been able to get back for a full meal. This time, happy hour, and their half-price antojitos (appetizers) beckoned, so I still need to go for a main meal!

During daily happy hour, they've got specials on margaritas, sangria, and Lone Star beers. I was more than happy to sip on a sangria while waiting for my friend to arrive! The corn tortilla chips were nice and light, and the green sauce with tomatillo, avocado and lime was particularly tasty!

To snack on, I picked the emapanadas and the queso blanco y rojo. The corn masa empanandas are filled with mushrooms and cheese, and must have achiote paste in the masa to give them their orange color. The salsa was called picosa (different than the one that was with the chips), and it had a nice light, roasted flavor. The queso was really good! Great consistency (no crappy cheese by-products!), and nice bits of rajas (sauteed poblano pepper strips) and onions. It's served with tostados, or, yesterdays flour tortillas that are cut and fried. I love how thick they are, but several were very greasy. 

My friend had the ceviche clasico, prepared with black drum. She offered me a bite, which for some reason I turned down at the time. She loved it, and I missed out!

I have heard the duck rellenos are delicious, but they will have to wait until another time! Hopefully, El Alma has the right recipe for success at this corner spot.

South Austin Restaurants

It is my pleasure to present the South Austin restaurant portion of the Austin Food Blogger's Alliance 2012 City Guide. There are tons of places, and these are just some of my favorite spots. Please eat and enjoy!

Along the South Congress corridor, map

Doc's -- Great bar food and people watching.

Perla's -- Upscale seafood spot, including a raw bar; salted butterscotch pot de creme for dessert not to be missed! Previous post. 

Hopdoddy -- This hoppin' burger spot has given new life to this piece of real estate. The beef burgers are great, but I CAN'T say enough about the lamb (Greek) burger! (Or the salted caramel milkshake.) You may want to think about splitting your food with a friend! Previous post.

Home Slice -- NY style pizza, right here in ATX! Props to the owners, in the past, have closed for a week and taken the staff to NY for "research". Be prepared to wait, unless you do the walk-up window. Southside Flying Pizza  also worthy.

Enoteca/Vespaio -- Enoteca is the neighborhood bistro side, and Vespaio the fine dining, but they share the same kitchen. E will have your delicious pasta, paninis, pizza, V will have these, plus some great meat specials, great date spot. It's hard for me to go to Enoteca and not have the spaghetti carbonara; suppli and calamari too. Previous post on Enoteca.

The Woodland -- Brunch is divine, as are the desserts. Previous post.

Magnolia Cafe -- One of the few spots in town open 24 hours a day. Bernadette's salad and Martian Landscapes are always favorites.

Lucy's Fried Chicken -- Upscale fried chicken and luscious pies, s'more pie below; from the folks at Olivia (at 2218 College Ave, map).

Photos courtesy Mandy Graeber, Bite of Austin

Curra's -- (at 614 E. Oltorf, 1/4 mile east of Congress) I much prefer their food to that other spot in the middle of SoCo. Avocado margaritas. Breakfast tacos. Grackles on the patio.
Habana -- I feel like I've been eating here for years (and yet, I don't seem to have pictures, ooops!) Cuban and Caribbean foods, mojitos and happy hour specials. Love the outdoor cabanas; I am always partial to the pollo salteado.
Borrego de Oro -- Bit of a dive, but the interior Mexican food is worth it. Mole. Lamb stew. Previous post.
Hill's Cafe -- Great burger, served on a sweet bun. Sweet potato fries too. (Just past Ben White at  4700 S. Congress) Previous post. 

Whip In -- Part liquor store, part grocery store, part bar/restaurant, they serve food with an Indian influence. Nice patio, live music, you often forget you're on the IH-35 frontage road (1950 S. IH-35, map).

South First, map
Elizabeth Street Cafe -- Barely two months old, but making a mark already. French-inspired Vietnamese food. Pork meatballs are so incredibly tender. Previous post.

 Lenoir -- Also new to the Bouldin neighborhood, this tiny spot is influenced by "hot weather" foods; previous post.

La Patisserie -- Really a French bakery, not a restaurant, but too good not to share! (If they have the toasted almond macaroon, try it -- it was MY suggestion!) Love a warm morning (cinnamon bun) bun for my breakfast; previous post. 

What's known as the Mexican Mile -- starting at El Mercado, headed south, Jovita's, La Reyna, La Mexicana Bakery, Polvo's, Little Mexico, El Tacorrido (map)
Bouldin Creek Cafe -- A laid back, vegetarian haven, even us carnivores find tasty things like their veggie burger or enchiladas with "chorizo" and caramelized onions.
Sugar Mama's Bakeshop -- Also a bakery, but owned by some great people, and they're in the process of expanding into the space next door. Cupcakes, pies, bars, and soon, breakfast! 
Green Pastures -- A beautiful old estate, complete with peacocks. Not just for events.
The Flying Carpet -- This Moroccan spot started as a food trailer, and they've just "graduated" to a brick and mortar establishment at 504 W. Oltorf, about a block from S. 1st. Maria and Abdu are some of the nicest folks ever, and their food is delicious and made with love -- try the Moroccan burger; previous post.
Habanero -- At Oltorf, a hair off the Mexican Mile, this one's my favorite of the South First Mex/Tex Mex places! Great charro beans. Previous post.

South Lamar, map
Casa de Luz -- Just off Lamar, this macrobiotic spot, has legions of faithful devotees, and a community center.
P. Terry's -- Now there's fast food a la Mickey D's (boo!), and then there's P. Terry's, where it's GOOD! Please drive though! (Several locations around town, but this was the original.)
Shady Grove -- Probably where I had my first veggie burger many moons ago! 1624 Barton Springs, about 1/4 mile from S. Lamar.
Uchi -- Fine dining at some of it's finest. The original of the Tyson Cole empire, fusion Japanese. Wagyu hot rock. Hamachi. Pitchfork roll. Make a reservation; one of my earliest blog posts.
Maudie's -- One of several locations around town, good happy hours.
Suzi's Chinese Kitchen -- Yes, it's Americanized Chinese food, but it's consistently good. No one does sesame chicken like Suzi's.
The Highball -- From the Alamo Drafthouse people, is it a restaurant? A bar? Lounge? Bowling alley? Karoke bar? Yes. The Dr. Pepper ribs are VERY messy! Previous post.
Sazon -- Really good interior Mexican food, nice outdoor patio, even if it is sitting directly on Lamar. You don't find huitlacoche just anywhere; previous post.
Olivia -- A beautifully designed building, outdoor patio, garden in back, and a solid menu. Dinners and weekend brunch, committed to locally grown as much as possible; previous post.
Black Sheep Lodge -- Yeah it's a bar, but it's a bar with great food, like Nathan's corndog bites, and fried pickles.
Barley Swine -- One of the spots that has been buzzing ever since they opened last year. Creative seasonal foods, with an emphasis on beer pairings, and a highly knowledgeable wait staff. Community seating, no reservations taken; previous post. 

Mr. Natural -- Another vegetarian spot (yes, this is SOUTH Austin!), a combination cafe/store. Hearty, hefty portions.
Artz Ribhouse -- My favorite local spot to make a pig run! And the place I often take out of town visitors. I get cravings for their baby back ribs. Previous post.

Juicebox/Soup Peddler -- Part of the Austinville 78704 complex at Lamar and Manchaca. You've got soups and smoothies/juices, healthy and tasty, all in one spot. 

Photo courtesy Jodi Bart, Tasty Touring

Papalote -- Small little Mexican street foods spot (post), owned by the people of Azul Tequila, good vegetarian options.
Phil's/Amy's -- Burgers galore, and yes, THAT Amy's ice cream; previous post.

Kerbey Lane -- Another 24 hour spot, Kerbey just move into a new location (3 blocks from the old) with more parking. Gingerbread pancakes.
Red's Porch -- A Tex Mex/Southern/Cajun combination -- something for everyone. Great views of the Greenbelt and crowded for happy hours, previous post.
Pluckers -- Kind of a sports bar, and decidedly known for their wings, but I like their fried mac 'n cheese!


Westgate/Brodie Lane/Sunset Valley
Central Market Westgate Cafe -- Daily specials, family friendly, and live music a couple nights a week. Oh yeah, and then you can shop!
Hyde Park Bar and Grill -- Known for their battered and highly addictive french fries!
Sap's (formerly Madam Mam's) -- Recent name change, due to a divorce. I eat here frequently enough to know what some of the better dishes are: the tom yum soup, tiger cry, moo ping with pork, amazing green beans. And frequently enough that I should have pics. Next time.
Tarka -- Indian, from the previous owners of the Clay Pit downtown. Dine in or carry out; post.

Craig O's Pizza -- Yes, it's in a strip center but it's good food, certainly better than the chain restaurants nearby. Pizza, pastas, subs, salad, beer.
Full English Cafe -- Quirky British place has picked up a South Austin vibe in their decor. High tea, wi-fi, bangers. (Just off Manchaca, at 2000 Southern Oaks, map)


William Cannon and beyond
Yanagi -- Japanese food with great value; lunchtime bento boxes for lunch average $10 and are a LOT of food. 

Wholly Bagel -- Big, fat, NY style bagels! Bialys too! Crusty and tender, all in one. 

Photo courtesy Eli Castro, Grubbus

Cafe Malta -- I haven't been yet, but I hear great things, like house roasted pork shoulder over roasted apple couscous and warm ratatouille with a date demi-glace. And they make their own pasta.

Photo courtesy Michelle Cheng, Foodie is the New Forty

Galaxy Cafe -- They have a few locations around town now, but this one at Slaughter and Brodie is the original. Soup, salads, sandwiches, family friendly. Map.

Evangeline Cafe -- Cajun in deep, south Austin! Po'boys, and tiny little crispy onion rings. Previous post, map.
Jack Allen's Kitchen -- On Hwy 71, past the Y in Oak Hill (map), lies a destination in what was once the middle of nowhere, at least restaurant speaking. Lunch, happy hour, dinner, brunch, JAK's has it all! I've got to get there for brunch.... Previous post.

Lenoir

My area of Bouldin Creek is becoming quite hip, and I am over the moon with the explosion of new eateries in the area. Now adding to the mix is Lenoir, in the old home of Somnio, on South 1st between Annie and Mary Streets. The prix-fixe restaurant is the work of Todd Duplechan, formerly of Trio at the Four Seasons Hotel, and his wife, Jessica Maher, a pastry chef and recent member of the Dai Due team. 

Like La Patisserie and Elizabeth Street Cafe, Lenoir has taken one of the neighborhood's cottage houses and transformed it. As I had seen previously written, the interior is a combination of dark masculine wood when you enter, surrounded by the more feminine feel of off-white gauzy/lacy curtains. The tables and chairs are wooden, painted in a light coat of white, so the grain of the wood is visible. The taller, cocktail-style tables have leather and brass stud accents on the corners, while the ten-seat community table in the middle of the room sits under a bank of lights, giving it a modern chandelier look. I believe I counted a total of 33 seats -- 9 at the bar, 10 at the community table, and 14 at the 2 and 4-top cocktail tables. It's not very big at all. Our waiter and his witticisms was always present, but not hovering.

Lenoir's menu is divided into four areas: field, sea, land, dream (dessert); you can pick any three dishes for $30, and additional ones are $10. The menu changes with what's available seasonally and locally.

My first course was the upma polenta with Brussels sprouts and carrots. It's actually a semolina (wheat) polenta, as opposed to the traditional corn. (May be a problem for gluten-free eaters, as it's not listed as wheat on the menu.) It had a nice late-hitting spiciness to it, from mustard seed and I am not sure what else. The baby Brussels were seared, and the carrots tender.

The second dish I had was axis venison in a spiced broth with haikurei turnips, sunflower sprouts, daikon radish (they were cut very thin, like angel hair pasta), and rawa noodles, made from toasted wheat. I would call this their take on a pho bowl. The venison was cooked beautifully, and the broth really had a nice flavor to it, and the two together were wonderful. While the waiter named cinnamon and star anise as being in the broth, the lingering flavor was the heat from the Balinese long peppers (they look like miniature, long pine cones), a  relation to black peppercorns.

For my third course, I had the chaubier cheese with almond nougatine, and grapefruit preserves from the local maker Confituras. And I apparently forgot to take a picture! Chaubier is a wash-rind, semi-firm goat and cow's milk cheese from France; I'd say a medium-strong cheese. It's creaminess was nice with the candied almonds and tart jam.


Other dishes my friend's had.... gulf shrimp with kabocha squash, kale and xo sauce. I was not familiar with xo before; it's made from dried fish, shrimp, scallops, along with chile peppers, garlic and other spices, and is often used in Cantonese foods. Lenoir is making their own, and it was fantastic. It really elevated this dish, giving it a great depth of flavor. (This dish was about to come off the menu, as kabocha is about out of season now.)

The chickpea panisse (like a polenta), oyster mushrooms, wilted winter greens, and a poached egg.

Red curry short ribs with scarlet runner beans

Chicken, shitake mushrooms, lettuce, carrots, and peanuts. While you wouldn't know it from it's description, this was a take on lettuce wraps.

Leftovers were packaged in a swan boat! (Maybe we'll call it a grackle instead...) On the table behind the swan was a black holder for a small vase of flowers, and also a salt cellar, with a flaky sea salt with lavender and herbs in it. It looked more like decoration until I looked more closely at it, and then tried it.

It's sort of hard to pin down the specific type of food that Lenoir is serving, and maybe that's their point. They have described themselves as making "hot weather food" -- spicy and acidic, and the Asian influences from the dishes I tried can attest to that. The name Lenoir refers to a varietal of French black grape, brought by the Spanish to Central America, and well-rooted in Texas, a parallel to the owners' own culinary journey. Glad their journey has brought them to our little neck of the woods.